No, despite the similarity of its appearance, it is not a typical cod fritter . It does not have an iota of sweetness in its essence, although it shares a name with the traditional Almeria porridge. The tarbinas or tarvinas , since the term is not found in the Royal Academy of Language, both meanings are admitted, they are native to Dos Hermanas . One hundred percent Nazarene. This soft-textured crumbled cod batter that perfectly combines the intensity of the fish with onion, garlic, mint and parsley is, according to local hoteliers and gastronomic associations, the indigenous dish par excellence of Dos Hermanas.
Paradoxes of life, or of gastronomy, the Nazarene tarbinas are today on the verge of extinction . As explained by the Salmedina Gastronomic and Cultural Association, only one establishment in a city of 135,000 inhabitants that has more than 600 bars and restaurants includes tarbinas permanently on its menu. And those who add them in a timely manner at some times of the year do not reach ten. A situation that has long alerted this group of lovers of local gastronomy who are committed to recovering the typical cod batter from Dos Hermanas. “The tarbinas are part of our essence. Although each Nazarene family usually has someone, be it a grandmother, cousin or mother, who continues to make them, they always stay there, in our homes. And it is a pity that it does not come out because it is a delicious snack”, explains Juan Dominguez , a member of the association.
An affirmation that corroborates the Nazarene gastronomy writer and author of the two copies of ‘ De Tapas por Dos Hermanas ‘, Antonio Murube . “The tarbina is something so much ours that people from nearby towns such as Los Palacios, Alcala de Guadaira or even Bellavista, which if it belongs to Dos Hermanas, do not know what it is. We have to support its resurgence”, he adds.
According to Dominguez and Murube, despite the fact that each Nazarene family gives its personal touch to the recipe, the common denominator in the preparation of the tarbinas is the non-use of the egg as an ingredient “which is what would turn it into a bunuelo”. This implies that, when it comes to frying them, “they become somewhat misshapen, compared to the bunuelo, which is rounder.” “The ideal isprepare the dough the night before , let it ferment and put it on the fire the next day using a small spoon and a good oil”.
Visibility of the autochthonous
Some tricks when preparing the tarbinas that the Salmedina Gastronomic and Cultural Association puts into practice in its particular visibility campaign for the Nazarene dish par excellence. In this sense, every Sunday of the Dos Hermanas pre-fair, the association organizes a popular ‘Tarbina’ in which they invest approximately three kilos of cod and another three of flour in supplying tarbinas to anyone who wishes to savor this unique elaboration. local.
In this same line of recovery of the autochthonous, Juan Dominguez is carrying out a study of all the tarbinas and/or tarvinas recipes existing throughout the world. And it is that, although the origin of the Nazarene tarbina is not exactly known, according to the gastronomic researcher Manuel Ruiz Torres , there seems to be a common root in the use of the Arabism ‘talvina’ referring to any liquid porridge. Perhaps that is where the 27 salty tarbinas/tarvinas and the six sweet ones that the member of the Salmedina association has compiled and is currently studying come from. “To make our tarbin important, it is also necessary to know all the others,” says Dominguez.
Lenten dish
Although the Salmedina Gastronomic and Cultural Association defends that the tarbinas can be eaten at any time of the year, whether as a tapa, starter or main dish, the truth is that the use of cod in its composition means that many families from Dos Hermanas consume them mainly in Lent and Easter.
In fact, some of the establishments that punctually introduce them in their menus do so at this time of year. This is the case of El Giraldillo bar , located at number 50 on Virgen de la Encarnacion street, or Velo de Flor Sherry Bar located at number 11 Isbilia street. Other bars that serve them eventually, regardless of the season or religious holiday, are the Cafeteria Bar La Rejafrom local 3 on Portugal street and the Cafeteria Bar Portillo located at number 49 on Maria Magdalena street, where Encarni Martinez , owner and cook, makes them following her grandmother’s recipe.
To find a plate or tapas of tarbinas in Dos Hermanas any day of the year it is necessary to go to the central Plaza Constitucion, next to the Town Hall, where the La Majara Tavern is located .
Dough prepared in Antonio Martin’s butcher shop
Those who wish to venture to fry their own homemade tubs from their kitchen without having to make them, can purchase one of the half-kilo tubs of dough at a price of 5 euros prepared by Antonio Martin , owner of theLa Carretera de Dos Hermanas butcher shop, located at number 43 of Avenida de Andalucia. “We have been making these tubs for about five years and about 25 kilos a week come out. The truth is that they sell well, especially for the vigil and Holy Week”.
The butcher openly supports the cause of recovery of this dish of Nazarene essence that is championed by the Salmedina association. “There are many people who do not know tarbins and ask us about them when they see the preparation. I love telling you your story. And when they take them to try them, they always repeat”.
Do you want to know the tarbinas recipe
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More gastronomic information about Dos Hermanas, here.
