In recent years, attention has grown a lot, from consumers but also from manufacturers, in the choice of shampoo and hair products in general, conditioners, masks and dyes . We no longer trust, and rightly so, often misleading advertisements: the user wants to know what the products they put in their head really contain .
The most important thing is to learn to read the label , or the list of ingredients, commonly called INCI (International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients).
Index
- How to read the label
- The ingredients to avoid in a shampoo
- Surfactants
- Preservatives
- Coloranti e syntethic color
- Thickeners
- Alcohol
- Antifreeze
- Perfumes
- Additives for straightening curly or frizzy hair
- Silicones
- What to pay attention to
How to read the label
Meanwhile, know that the order of the ingredients corresponds to their quantity in the product. In the first places we will therefore have those that are present in greater doses: it is there that we must check that there are no dangerous products. Because even if allowed by law, some ingredients are inadvisable for humans and the environment.
Before going to list the dangerous ingredients one by one, we tell you the two fundamental things to do when choosing shampoo and conditioner, and the summary list of ingredients to avoid , to print and always keep with you.
1. Look for shampoos that do not contain ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, the most widespread, aggressive and harmful surfactants (see below). The alternative is to look for shampoos that use a milder form of detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfoaccetate and sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate. These shampoos don’t lather as much as shampoos that contain more aggressive Sls or Sles, but they effectively cleanse your hair and scalp, without stressing your hair.
2. Look for a conditioner that does not contain dimethicone(read below). One of the best alternatives is to find a conditioner that uses 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA). This is one of the lipids that our hair naturally covers itself with: as our hair grows, 18-MEA is incorporated into them and acts as a natural insulator that helps balance the moisture in the hair shaft, increases the integrity of the hair. stem and gives a natural shine. Ingredients to avoid in a shampoo
In alphabetical order:
Alcohol (when it is one of the first four ingredients on the list)
Ammonium lauryl sulfate
Amodimethicone
Cocamide Mea, Tea, Dea
Cyclomethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Diethanolamine (Dea)
Dimethicone
Formaldehyde
Imidazolidinyl urea
Lanolin
Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Methylisothiazolinone
Mineral oil
Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, for example)
Paraffinum liquidum
Petrolatum
Petroleum
Polyethelyne glycol (also called PEG / polyethelyne, or polyoxyethium colors on the
Sodium chlorate and sodium
chlorfium ,
often
chlorfium
) o D&C followed by a color and a number)
Synthetic fragrance o parfum
Vaseline
Triclosan
Triethanolamine (Tea)
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
And now let’s get to know them in detail and understand why they are harmful.Surfactants
Sodium Laureth Sulfate is the most common surfactant in shampoos. It is very effective in removing dirt and foaming, but it is highly aggressive, if not balanced with the presence of betaines . It is not carcinogenic, but in the long run it destroys hair, stripping it of the essential oils it needs to stay healthy, weakening proteins and stopping the growth of healthy hair. In practice, the products containing Sls have a total cleaning power, but they ruin the hair. Ammonium lauryl sulfate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfateare other harsh cleansers that in many shampoos cause the foaming that we often see in hair commercials. The ideal would be to look for a shampoo that does not contain these ingredients. Preservatives Dmdm hydantoin, imidazolidinyl, diazolidinyl urea are preservatives which, in contact with water, release formaldehyde , carcinogen and sensitizer. Excessive exposure to formaldehyde, which is found in some shampoos, can cause hair loss.
Methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone are preservatives that are toxic to the aquatic environment and irritating to the skin. Parabens – are used to extend the life of an average hair care product. Parabens such as themethylparaben and propylparaben are chemicals known for their toxic nature, not only irritate the skin, causing the scalp to look bad, but can also affect hormonal balance and cause hair loss. Dyes and syntethic color
Artificial colors are widely used in hair products with aesthetic purposes. These ingredients often appear as FD&C or D&C followed by a color and number . Color pigments can cause skin sensitivity with scalp irritation. Sodium Chloride thickeners :better known as table salt, sodium chloride is used as a thickener in shampoos and conditioners containing sodium lauyil sulfate. It can cause dry, itchy scalp, as well as hair loss. It should also be avoided by people who are using keratin treatments as it nullifies the benefit faster. Polyethelyne Glycol: Also called PEG / polyethelyne or Polyoxyethelyne, this ingredient is included in shampoos as a thickening agent. Strip the hair and skin of their natural moisture. Diethanolamine (Goddess) and Triethanolamine (Tea):help to give the shampoo creaminess. Products containing Goddess or Tea can cause scalp irritation and allergic reactions, along with destroying all the good things in the hair (like keratin) making it dry, brittle and lifeless. Alcohol
Almost all hair products contain some form of alcohol, which can dry out the hair if it is found in high concentrations. Stay away from shampoos with alcohol listed as one of the top four ingredients , as it means it contains too much alcohol. Propylene Glycol Antifreeze :Also known as the antifreeze used in cars, propylene glycol is a common ingredient in shampoos and other personal care products to protect the product from freezing during transport and storage. It can irritate the skin, causing allergic reactions, and alters the texture of the skin. Synthetic Fragrance or Parfum Perfumes: This ingredient usually represents a complex blend of dozens of chemicals. About three thousand chemicals are used in one perfume. Many perfumes are irritating and can cause scalp irritation. Additives for straightening curly or frizzy hair Lanolin, Petroleum and Mineral Oil:these ingredients are widely used in gels and masks formulated for curly hair and offer no real moisturizing benefits. In reality they only weigh down the hair and do not allow the natural oils produced by the scalp to be absorbed by the hair shaft. Dimethicone : is a synthetic polymer and a form of silicone with two methyl groups attached (hence the name Di-methicone). It usually acts as a sealant in skin and hair products, covering surfaces to wipe away moisture and act as a smoothing and texture additive . It is found in many smoothing balms, with an anti-frizz effect.
It can cause skin and scalp irritation, cracking, rashes, burning and itching. It does not allow our skin and scalp to breathe, resulting in an increase in acne and irritation to the hair follicles, causing hair loss. To date, research is trying to understand if it is linked to the onset of internal organ tumors but the correlation has not yet been proven. Dimethicone silicones , amodimenthicone, cyclomethicone: these substances have the power to create an illusion on the hair, giving a feeling of hydration and protection. Big mistake: they create a sort of film, very difficult to wash off, which over time will weigh down the skin and dry out the hair.
Particular attention to thecyclopentasiloxane , always present at the beginning of the INCI of liquid crystal-like products. Here the silicones are the masters and, although the hair may seem nourished, shiny and beautiful as soon as you stop using this product, the hair will return to its previous condition and without having obtained real benefits. What to pay attention to
Avoiding some products present in the more classic INCI is not only good for the hair, but also good for the environment. For example EDTA-TETRASODIUM EDTA which is very difficult to dispose of and therefore a pollutant for the ecosystem.
Furthermore, for those who are beginners or for those who are starting to approach greener cosmetics, there is a little trick: avoid all the ingredients that end in–Trimonium (which gives shine and softness) –dimonium (risk to water and highly polluting) and –glycol (which identifies aggressive synthetic solvents on the skin and therefore on the skin). Source: DiLei
